Bear River, I’m crossing you in style

Bear River, Nova Scotia, Canada

Bear River

I think it was partly the name that made me stop. I had a long drive ahead of me that day – some 528km to drive from Digby up to Charlottetown in Prince Edward Island. And that’s if I didn’t take the scenic route, which would be very unlike me. But it was a glorious day, so about 10km out of Digby, I decided to stop off and have a look. Driving down the river road to stunning views was a great start to the day. Bright sunlight, blue waters, and quiet was the way of things in Bear River that day – there seemed very little to stress one out in this village. Oh… except for the numerous signs warning those that like to live life on the edge, that the riverbanks were very unstable – approach them at your own risk.

It wasn’t a day that I wished to ride the tidal bore, so I kept my distance, and wandered up to the bridge instead, and had a look around. It was a place so quiet that the silence was deafening. I watched a loon swimming gracefully along the river. Bear River is after all a very small village.

It was a fleeting visit, but a worthwhile one.

Click here to see my gallery from Bear River.

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The rising tide

Annapolis Royal and Digby, Nova Scotia, Canada

Almost high tide... but not quiteFrom Lunenburg, and the Atlantic shore, where I gave up waiting for the rain to clear, I headed west to the Bay of Fundy shore.

It was my first sighting of the incredible Fundy, which has the highest tides in the world. This is due to the shape of the bay, which has a gradual funnel shape. The tides are 10-15m, meaning that the water rises and falls this distance twice each day along the coastlines of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. The height of the tides depends largely on the phase of the moon, highest around full moon and the equinox (September and March). For a primer on tides, click here.

When I got to Annapolis Royal, it was almost high tide. Almost, but not quite. At least the boats were sitting in some water. At low tide, in parts of the Bay of Fundy, boats like these would be high and dry sitting on mud during low tide, and about 6 hours later, would be up floating in a massive body of water. It’s amazing the difference a few hours make.

The Annapolis River is also home to the Tidal Power Project – a plant that converts the energy from the tides into usable power – which is enough to power 4,500 homes. Pretty cool!

Scallop trawlers at Digby

From Annapolis Royal, I headed south to Digby, another small fishing village (I was getting used to these) which is famous for scallops. Not being much of a scallop eater myself I settled for a nice halibut steak and a relaxing walk around the harbour. Digby was a pleasant but sleepy village. It was down by the scallop trawlers that all the activity was happening. I might have been good if I liked scallops! It was high tide by now, and unfortunately I was going to have to wait to see the low tide somewhere else. Unless I was keen to get up at approximately 2am. By the time I got up in the morning, it was high tide again. It felt like nothing had changed, rather than masses of water coming in and out of the harbour. But there was going to be enough time later that day to see the bay at low tide. As with all things in travel, patience is necessary.

Click here to see my gallery from Annapolis Royal, and here to see my gallery from Digby

Fundy tides

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Lunenburg: A study in precipitation

Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, Canada

Lunenburg waterfront

I was really excited about visiting Lunenburg.. Through my years of travelling I’ve become quite partial to visiting World Heritage sites, and Lunenburg was on the agenda the minute I decided to travel to Nova Scotia. Sadly the weather gods were not on my side, and the rainiest of my trip was the one where I had planned to visit Lunenburg.

After a dreary drive from Peggy’s Cove, via Queensland Beach (couldn’t help but stop for a photo), I arrived in Lunenburg. It was a textbook case of unlucky weather. I could see that Lunenburg would be a lovely place if I had caught it on a nice day. Sadly, the day I arrived there was anything but a nice day. Too wet to do much at all, I took refuge firstly in a deli, where I had a lovely lunch, and secondly in the Fisheries Museum. Ever since I graduated from jumping in puddles, I’ve not been much of a fan of being out in the rain, my visit to Lunenburg was short. I’m not too disheartened though – next time I’m in Halifax I’m determined to return.

I still managed to take a few photos though:

 

Click here to see my gallery from Lunenburg

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So we are moving to a lighthouse, you and I…

Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia, Canada

Lighthouse sunset

I suppose I’ve always liked lighthouses, but didn’t realise that I had such a fully fledged obsession with them until I arrived in Peggy’s Cove. It was there that the photographic love affair started.

I was a little apprehensive that one of Nova Scotia’s biggest tourist destinations would disappoint, however I did it the right way around. Peggy’s Cove is by day infested with tourists, but as I arrived in the late afternoon, the village had reverted into the sleepy fishing haven that it is.

This is almost the same as the Lonely Planet coverThere’s not a great deal to the village, and its history is largely a fishing community. It is said that the name comes from a shipwreck victim who came to the cove, and married a local, becoming Peggy of the Cove. Peggy’s Cove now has a population of around 45 people. It was hard to believe there were even that many living there. I checked into my B&B, with a view over the cove, and almost immediately headed out with my camera.

 

Boats in Peggy's Cove HarbourThe village harbour consisted of some ricketty sheds held up over the water by stilts, some old boats, and lots of buoys, ropes and flags. It was refreshingly low key for such a major tourist destination. There’s something romantic about paint peeling, and seemingly unsteady poles suspending fishing sheds over glassy waters. I was relieved that it wasn’t freshly painted and squeaky clean – for me that would have removed some of the magic of the place. However the mosquitos made it real enough for me.

The real attraction of Peggy’s Cove though, is the Peggy’s Point Lighthouse, probably the most famous lighthouse in Canada, though I think the claims that it’s the world’s most photographed lighthouse could be a little lofty. The lighthouse marks the entrance to St Margaret’s Bay, and stands high above giant granite boulders. The seas were relatively calm when I visited, but it evoked thoughts of one of my favourite songs, Josh Pyke’s aptly named “The Lighthouse Song”.

Excusing the expletive:

So we are moving to a lighthouse, you and I
While seas drown sailors, we’ll be locked up safe and dry
And though our doors may knock and rattle in the wind
I’ll just hold you tight and we’ll not let those fuckers in

 

Evening comes to Peggy's Point Lighthouse Seafood chowder

After a brief break to have some dinner (seafood chowder made with Nova Scotia lobster, haddock and other goodies) I was back out finding a comfy spot on the granite to set up my tripod and take in the sunset. And what a sunset it was! It was the start of a pattern that I would experience for the rest of the trip. I didn’t always have fantastic weather. I had some downright miserable days. But when it really counted, I had nothing but perfect weather.

Brilliant sunset reflected in the pond Sun setting over the Inukshuk - you see these all over Canada

I walked back to my B&B, guided by the glow from the lighthouse with the soft rumblings of the foghorn warning those sailors out at sea, and was greeted with the news that my nephew Oliver had arrived. A lovely end to a fantastic day.

Night falling over the village

When I awoke the next morning, the rain had settled in for what would be the wettest day of the trip, but it couldn’t take away from Peggy and her lovely lighthouse.

Click here for my gallery containing a small fraction of my gratuitous photographs of Peggy’s Cove

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Cannons and rifles and kilts, oh my!

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

And so… all trips have to start somewhere, and mine started with Halifax.

Halifax waterfront

Halifax was settled in 1749 by the British. At the time there was still a fairly heavy French presence in this part of Canada, but the settlement of Halifax helped to increase the British presence in Nova Scotia (which translates from the Latin to New Scotland).

Halifax is located on a large harbour, and as such has always been a maritime city, and is now the largest city within the Maritime provinces. For me, it was lovely to be near the water again, on the ocean, with boats lining the waterfront. I’m sorry Toronto, but a giant lake just isn’t quite the same.

I arrived in Halifax at around 9.30pm. Or to be accurate, I arrived at Halifax airport. It’s a LONG way out of town. By the time I navigated my way into town in my rented Kia Soul, it was pushing 11pm. Parking was easy enough if I was willing to get up before 8am to feed a meter, but given that isn’t something I’m generally keen to do, I hunted down parking for a little while so I could afford a relaxed morning. Then I was ready to get some sleep.

I awoke the next day to blue skies and sunshine. The trip was off to a good start. After tracking down a cafe (this would prove more and more difficult as the trip progressed) I headed down to the waterfront, and spent the morning wandering along, browsing the stores, looking at the boats.

Speaking of boats, throughout the trip there was one famous boat that came up on a number of occasions in different parts of the Maritimes. That ‘boat’ was Titanic, and it was to Halifax that most of the bodies that were recovered were taken to Halifax, being the closest connected city, where they were identified, with many buried in the city.

Letting off some steam at Halifax Citadel  Bagpipes at the Halifax Citadel

After wandering the waterfront, it was up to the Halifax Citadel, just in time for the daily cannon firing. The fortress standing now is the fourth in that position, and was built from 1818 to 1861. It never came under attack. This was the first national heritage site that I visited, however after visiting a few, the Parks Canada fancy for dressing up in period costumes came out. The Citadel is set up to mirror how it would have been when the 78th Highland Regiment, complete with kilts and bagpipes, manned the fortress. While I was there I saw a rifle display, and bagpipes being played. I found the fortress very interesting, and while I don’t usually go for the whole period dress thing, I found it to be quite tastefully done, with knowledgeable staff, and I actually found it an educational experience. Or perhaps I just liked the kilts and bagpipes.

Then all too soon it turned later, and I had to get moving to my destination for the evening, so I headed down to the farmer’s market, and the imaginatively named “The Fish Shop” where I had the most incredible serving of fish and chips for lunch. The bar had been set. And then… after tasting and purchasing some incredibly juicy strawberries from another stall, I got behind the wall and drove off into the sunset. Literally speaking.

The most incredible fish and chips at the Halifax Farmers Market

But that, and my first lighthouse encounter, is a story for next time.

Click here to see my gallery from Halifax

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Maritimes… in numbers

IMG_3904

I’ve just returned from my summer holiday. When I originally planned the move to Canada, there was one trip I was determined to undertake, to the extent that it influenced my decision to move to the eastern part (well… relatively speaking) of Canada. That trip was the Maritime provinces of Canada – the east coast, namely Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and Newfoundland (and a 65km drive through New Brunswick). I’m going to temporarily break the flow of this blog. Because let’s face it, it’s a bit all over the place anyhow. And now I’m going to post the photographs and stories from this incredible part of Canada.

But before jumping into the details… let’s talk about some of the key facts to start with.

The Maritime provinces are the provinces east of Quebec, and funnily enough, have a deep maritime history. They are also the smallest provinces by both geographic area and population, with Prince Edward Island, Canada’s smallest in both area and population surprisingly carrying the highest population density.

But when talking about Canada, the world’s third largest country by area, use of the term “small” is always relative. In just over two weeks, I drove just under 5,000km. And only about 30km of that consisted of getting lost. Note to self: It’s harder to get lost when there’s only one road.

So… without further ado, a few key numbers from my jaunt in the Maritimes.

On the road

Total kilometres driven: 4835.2

Number of gas station stops: 12

Number of cars driven: 2 (One in Nova Scotia/PEI and one in Newfoundland)

Number of times that I forgot to drive on the right side of the road: 2 (though remembered fairly quickly)

Time spent giggling over these directions I received from Sydney to North Sydney (possibly both located in Nova Scotia: 5.5 minutes (though the Japan leg really looks a bit of a nightmare!)

Number of car ferries: 2 (one with car – across Little Narrows in Cape Breton)

The nature leader board

Number of moose: 10

Number of bears: 4

Number of bear families: 1

Largest iceberg spotted: 1km long

Highest mountain: Not very…

Other noteable sightings: foxes, chipmunks

Number of mosquitos: Infinite

 

Other observations

Obsessions with lighthouses: 1

Lighthouses visited: 17

Gratuitous photos of cute fishing villages: 37.3 per day (on average)

 

All in all, an incredible trip. I can’t wait to share the photos and stories with you.

Posted in Canada, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island Tagged , , , , , , |

Happy Canada Day!

Today was my first Canada Day as a resident of Canada. We were blessed in Toronto with absolutely perfect weather.

Canada Day fireworks!

Because I’m going on holidays later this week, I decided to stay in town for the long weekend (I actually get Monday off as well, making it a nice four-day weekend. In hindsight, that’s not been such a bad decision, because I got to spend a relaxed Canada Day in Toronto.

It was a little reminiscent of Australia Day in Sydney. Hot summer day, sunshine, and all kinds of things happening all over the city. I had a relaxing start to the day – a sleep-in is always lovely on a Friday morning, and then after a leisurely breakfast I headed out.

Dundas Square Fort York

First stop for the day was the camera store. I’d been meaning to buy a tripod for a while, especially with my trip to the Maritime provinces coming up later this week, and I thought that if I got it in the morning, I could test it out in the evening for the fireworks! Tripod purchased, it was off to see what Toronto had to offer for Canada Day. First stop was Dundas Square. There were a few stalls etc set up, but not a great deal happening so I headed down to Harbour Front. A quick glance at the lines for the ferries told me that I wasn’t going to be heading to the islands today, so I walked onward to the celebrations at Harbourfront. There were many things to see, including a mass Twister game, a world record attempt for a layer cake, as well as lots of stalls, and a beautiful view out over the lake. I spent a while looking around before I started to head home. The walk home from there is a lovely walk along the waterfront, though gardens full of flowers, and then up Bathurst Street past Fort York, where I popped in for some more Canada Day fun.

Boats on the lake Waterfront view

It was at Fort York that I was able to pick up my Canadian flag and Canadian flag pin, and wander around, sampling some of the old style cooking, and taking in the great Toronto skyline view.

From there it felt like I’d been in the sun for far too long. The summer days are so long that it felt like too much to stay out for the fireworks as well, so I went home for a siesta.Sunset over Lake Ontario Getting ready to watch the fireworks

And then it was out again for the evening. Armed with my new tripod, I headed up to Ontario Place to stake out a spot to watch the fireworks. It was a lovely walk up there – along the waterfront in some gorgeous evening light, and I made it in time to watch the sun setting over the lake.

 

Canada Day fireworks!

Then it was time for the fireworks. I was a little disappointed by those at New Year, so I wasn’t sure what to expect. It was no New Year’s Eve or Australia Day in Sydney, but it was an enjoyable display and I got some decent photos.

All in all, a great day. Next year I’m considering Canada Day in Ottawa. Apparently it goes off!

To finish off, a few Canadianisms that only lately I realise I’ve adopted:

  • I buy my milk in bags
  • I’ve started taking an interest in local news and politics. I know who Rob Ford is (though I’m still finding out what’s so bad about him)
  • I know that Canada has a long weekend named after beer
  • I know and regularly drink Canadian beer
  • When I hear the term “Hockey” I immediately think of a game played on ice
  • I know what an Inukshuk is (well… I had to google it, but I knew it was something to do with Inuits)

The Inukshuk (a symbol of the Inuit people) Toronto skyline by night

Canadianisms I haven’t yet adopted:

  • Tim Hortons. I really don’t get it.

Click here to see my gallery from Canada Day in Toronto

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Happy Birthday on top of the world

Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Last Friday it was my birthday. Another year older. It’s only the second time I’ve spent my birthday abroad though.

I’m happy to say that it was celebrated in style, from a great height. The crew from work headed up to Panorama, on the 51st floor of the Manulife building for an evening of cocktails and stunning views.

As we were leaving and under the handicap of countless cocktails and lack of tripod, I stepped out to capture the incredible view.

1 - June 15, 2011

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New gallery posted–Skeleton Lake

I’ve been enjoying so much sorting through the overwhelming stash of photos on my computer (current count: 42,751). I find I can get lost in a folder of photos and the memories of all my travels. With the summer in full force now, and my fast approaching summer holiday the thoughts of getting out of the city and outdoors are very attractive, and also something that Canada is so famous for!

The last folder of photos I lost myself in and put together a gallery from was a summer, five years ago, at Skeleton Lake. This is a lake to the northeast of Edmonton where the MacLeod’s have a cabin. So we went up for a day of relaxing, quad biking and whatever else took our fancy. I’d love to find somewhere in Ontario just like it.

Some lovely horses we came across

Click here to see my gallery from Skeleton Lake

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New gallery posted–Lake Louise

This must be one of the most stunning places I have visited in the world. I’ve been there both in the middle of summer and the middle of winter.

The summer photos will come, but for now I have loaded the magical winter photos from this beautiful place.

View toward the Victoria glacier, Lake Louise

Click here to see my gallery from Lake Louise

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